Installing Door and Window Openings in your VersaTube Garage
While your VersaTube garage will be shipped with drawings showing an overhead door or doors at the front of the building, the location of any pedestrian doors or windows you may desire is a jobsite decision. This segment of the tutorial will discuss how to frame the openings and go over a few placement considerations.
While I’m sure you’re anxious to start installing siding and roofing on your garage, there are a few details that need to be addressed before getting to that stage of construction – but it’s not far off. Your building was shipped with the main overhead doors figured into its design, but the placement of smaller doors and any windows that may be added are entirely up to you.
I highly recommend installing a walk-through door so the overhead door doesn’t have to be opened every time you enter the garage. However, whether adding windows is a good idea can depend on what you plan to use the building for and even where it happens to be located. If the garage is close to a well traveled common walkway, limiting visibility into the building might be a good idea – especially if you happen to have a prized car or motorcycle inside. On the other hand, if your hobby is working on your vehicles, natural light can be a big asset.
My garage is set back from the street so curious eyes weren’t an issue and since I plan on spending many weekend afternoons in the building, a row of windows just above workbench height were added across the rear wall. I also added a walk door on the right side toward the back of the building so the work area could be accessed without having to navigate my way past vehicles ten times in an afternoon.
How your garage is configured is entirely up to you – the only limitation is the location of the vertical framing members, but since they’re on 4 or 5 foot centers, that shouldn’t be a problem. Also keep in mind that door and window locations can restrict wall space you might need for shelving or storage on the inside of the structure.
Garage Door Header
The vertical jambs for the overhead door or doors were installed while doing the primary exterior framing, but now the headers or horizontal supports must be put into place. Check with your garage door manufacturer for the proper height, but most standard doors have the bottom of their header at 7 feet. Install the header by following these steps:
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Assemble the door header by sliding the 2 pieces of tubular steel together to the correct width to fit between the door jamb framing already in place. Secure the joint with two screws.
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Mark the height of the bottom of the header on both sides of the jamb.
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While the header is still on the floor, attach an angle bracket at each end – the brackets will be at the top of the header.
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Hold the header at your marks on the jambs and screw the brackets into the sides of the jambs that face the opening.
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There should also be a center support for the overhead door header that spans from the top to the header to the underside of the front most roof truss. The support should already be the correct size unless you’re installing a door that’s taller than 7 feet. If that’s the case, the support will need to be trimmed to fit the different header height.
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Attach a flat bracket at the top of the support that will sit on the inside of the roof truss and two angle brackets at the bottom of the support where it will meet the header.
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Place the support at the center of the header as it spans the opening, plumb it with your level, and screw the brackets into the truss and the header.
If you have more than one overhead door, repeat the above steps for the remaining openings.
Walk Through Door Framing
Framing for your walk through door is very easy if you remember one very important construction rule: rough opening size is different than the actual door size. A door that’s 36 inches wide and 80 inches tall will actually need a 38 by 81 ¾ inch rough opening framed. In most situations the rough opening will be 2 inches wider and 1 ¾ inches taller than the actual door size, but check with your door manufacturer for their recommendations. Once you know your door rough opening size, follow these steps to frame the opening:
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Choose the location for the door – an existing vertical framing member should be used as the jamb for one side of the door.
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Locate the 2 by 3 inch tubular door header material and attach an angle bracket to the top of each end. The header should fit between the main vertical framing members of your building.
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Mark the bottom of the header height on the vertical framing members, hold the header in place on the marks, and secure the brackets into the framing members.
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A piece of 2 by 3 inch tubular steel will be used as the other vertical jamb for the door. Attach an angle bracket to the top of the jamb so that it can be attached to the bottom of the header just installed and a flat bracket to the bottom that will be attached to the inside of the building’s bottom rail.
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Mark the rough opening width for your door on the header and bottom rail. It’s best to locate the door so that a foundation bolt isn’t in the opening. Hold the jamb in place on your marks, plumb it with the level, and secure it at the brackets.
Once the header and jambs are in place, you can install your door as per the manufacturer’s recommendations. Using a little caulk under the threshold while setting the door can often prevent water intrusion during a heavy rain.
Window Framing
If you decide to install optional windows in your VersaTube garage, framing is much the same as what was just done for the walk through door. Your garage will look better if the windows are all at the same height and the spacing between openings is similar so take that into consideration during placement. Here’s what needs to be done for each window:
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Mark the height for the top of the window on the 2 vertical framing members where the opening will be situated.
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Choose a piece of 2 by 3 inch tubing that will span between the 2 framing members and place an angle bracket on each end – this will be your window header.
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Place the header on the marks so that the bottom of the header is on the marks and the brackets are situated at the top of the header. Secure the header brackets to the framing members.
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Measure down from the bottom of the header for the rough opening your window requires and make marks on the vertical framing members.
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Attach angle brackets to another piece of 2 by 3 inch tubing the same length as the header and install it at the marks to act as the bottom of the window opening. The top of the new piece will be even with your marks and the brackets will be at the bottom of the support.
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Cut 2 pieces of 2 by 3 inch tubing to fit between the header and the bottom framing of the window opening – they should be the same length. These will be the window jambs or side supports. Attach an angle bracket to the ends of both pieces – the brackets should be on the same side of each piece and will face away from the opening when installed.
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Mark the window location on the header making sure you’re using the rough opening dimension. Sit a jamb so that the inside is even with the mark, plumb it with the level, and secure the brackets at both the top and bottom. Repeat with the jamb piece for the other side.
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When you’re done, the measurement from the bottom of the header to the top of the bottom support and from the inside of one jamb to the inside of the other should equal the window’s rough opening size.
Set the window in the opening and install it per manufacturer’s recommendations paying particular attention to any waterproofing details. Repeat the above steps for any additional windows. You’re now ready to move to the very last of the framing: installing the purlins and girts.
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